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One city, many afterlives.

Old neighbourhoods, food, repair and the right to be more than a capital.

Delhi

First passage

I begin Delhi with afterlives. It is a place to start looking at the labour, landscape, memory and changing present that gather around a single thread. A real portrait needs many voices and many return visits. This first passage simply leaves the door open.

This is a first doorway, not a total account of a place. As the archive grows, I will shape these stories with local knowledge, review and full credit to the people in them.

Four ways to meet a place.

01

Food

Chaat, kebabs and old-school sweets can turn one neighbourhood into an afternoon.

02

Festival

The festival calendar is crowded with traditions from across the country.

03

Flora & fauna

The Yamuna floodplain and city parks are reminders that a capital still has habitat.

04

Fashion & craft

Tailors, weavers and young designers make fashion here both inherited and restless.

Next field journalJammu and Kashmir↗

Come travel
differently.

A note from me when there is something good to share: a fresh story, a useful route, or a voice worth hearing.

hello@coloursinchaos.comKeep in touch ↗

Sign-ups open in January 2027, before I leave. A quiet note from me, now and then. No noise.