Six journeys,
one country at a time.

About 32,000 km and 33 weeks on the road over three years. I begin and end every loop at home in Chandigarh, and time each one to the festivals along its way.

The six journeys

  1. Desert, Salt and Colour

    I start with the painted havelis of Shekhawati, reach the Jaisalmer Desert Festival under the Magh full moon, cross the white salt of Kutch to the weavers and block printers of Bhuj, and spend eight days of Holi in Barsana and Vrindavan. I come home for Hola Mohalla at Anandpur Sahib.13 Feb to 24 Mar 2027

  2. Roof of the World

    I follow the Sutlej into Kinnaur, cross Spiti's rain-shadow villages and climb over Baralacha La to Leh for the masked dances of Hemis. Then Nubra, Pangong, the dark skies of Hanle, Zanskar by local jeep, and down through Zoji La to Srinagar.28 Jun to 7 Aug 2027

  3. Goddess, Lamps and the Ganga

    I begin in Kumartuli as the idol makers finish the eyes, then follow six days of Durga Puja in Kolkata's old family homes, the pattachitra painters of Raghurajpur, Kali Puja on Diwali night, Chhath on the Patna ghats, and a million lamps on Varanasi's steps for Dev Deepawali.2 Oct to 16 Nov 2027

  4. Deep South and the Mahamaham

    Ellora at opening time, the Latin quarter of Goa, nightly Theyyam in the village shrines of North Kerala, Fort Kochi's nets, the Meenakshi temple's night ceremony and Chettinad's mansions. I end at Kumbakonam for the Mahamaham, held once every twelve years.2 Feb to 17 Mar 2028

  5. Heart of India and the Simhastha

    Orchha's cenotaphs and Khajuraho's temples, then the royal bath of the Ujjain Simhastha Kumbh. After the crowds I follow the Narmada to Maheshwar, the ruins of Mandu, Bhimbetka's rock shelters, and the Gond painters of Patangarh near Kanha.3 Apr to 22 Apr 2028

  6. Northeast Frontier

    I begin with the hundred drums of Wangala in the Garo hills, then Meghalaya's root bridges, Kaziranga at dawn, the Raas dance-dramas of Majuli's monasteries, Konyak villages on the Myanmar border, and ten days of the Hornbill Festival near Kohima.4 Nov to 12 Dec 2029

Come travel
differently.

A note from me when there is something good to share: a fresh story, a useful route, or a voice worth hearing.

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Sign-ups open in January 2027, before I leave. A quiet note from me, now and then. No noise.