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The open courtyard at dusk.

A small study of gathering, food and the warmth of the everyday.

Haryana

First passage

I begin Haryana with courtyard evenings. It is a place to start looking at the labour, landscape, memory and changing present that gather around a single thread. A real portrait needs many voices and many return visits. This first passage simply leaves the door open.

This is a first doorway, not a total account of a place. As the archive grows, I will shape these stories with local knowledge, review and full credit to the people in them.

Four ways to meet a place.

01

Food

Bajra, ghee and winter greens offer a plainspoken kind of abundance.

02

Festival

Teej arrives with songs, swings and monsoon anticipation in many homes.

03

Flora & fauna

Sultanpur and the other wetlands fill with migratory birds each winter, a short drive from my home.

04

Fashion & craft

Phulkari and practical everyday dress show how ornament can live beside utility.

Next field journalHimachal Pradesh↗

Come travel
differently.

A note from me when there is something good to share: a fresh story, a useful route, or a voice worth hearing.

hello@coloursinchaos.comKeep in touch ↗

Sign-ups open in January 2027, before I leave. A quiet note from me, now and then. No noise.