Colours in ChaosGoddess, Lamps and the Ganga
The goddess made, worshipped and immersed; then lamps on homes, water and the river itself.
- Dates
- 2 Oct to 16 Nov 2027
- Length
- 46 days
- Distance
- about 5,500 km
- Through
- Bengal, Odisha, Bihar and Varanasi
I begin in Kumartuli as the idol makers finish the eyes, then follow six days of Durga Puja in Kolkata's old family homes, the pattachitra painters of Raghurajpur, Kali Puja on Diwali night, Chhath on the Patna ghats, and a million lamps on Varanasi's steps for Dev Deepawali.
The route.
- 2 to 4 OctLucknow, Bodh Gaya, KolkataChikankari workshops, then Kumartuli
- 5 to 11 OctKolkataBonedi bari pujas, dhunuchi dance, Sandhi Puja, sindoor khela, immersion
- 12 to 17 OctPuri, Konark, Raghurajpur, ChilikaPattachitra and Pipili appliqué, Konark at sunrise
- 20 to 26 OctSundarbans, Shantiniketan, BishnupurHoney collectors, Baul singers, terracotta temples
- 27 to 29 OctKolkataKali Puja at Kalighat and Dakshineswar
- 30 Oct to 1 NovMadhubaniMithila painters of Jitwarpur and Ranti
- 2 to 5 NovPatnaChhath: sunset and sunrise offerings on the Ganga
- 8 to 14 NovVaranasiWeavers, dawn boats, Dev Deepawali, Kartik Purnima dip
Festivals on the way
- Durga PujaKolkata5 to 10 Oct 2027
- Kali Puja and DiwaliKolkata29 Oct 2027
- ChhathPatna2 to 5 Nov 2027
- Dev DeepawaliVaranasi13 Nov 2027
At the table
Bhog khichuri, Kolkata street food, chhena poda, thekua and makhana, Chhath prasad, Varanasi malaiyo.
Field journals
Bihar · Odisha · Uttar Pradesh · West Bengal
Festival dates follow the lunar calendar or are announced late. I confirm them with temples and organisers about three months before each journey.
Come travel
differently.
A note from me when there is something good to share: a fresh story, a useful route, or a voice worth hearing.
Sign-ups open in January 2027, before I leave. A quiet note from me, now and then. No noise.