Deep South and the Mahamaham
Caves and coast, gods who dance in human bodies, then a whole town stepping into one tank.
- Dates
- 2 Feb to 17 Mar 2028
- Length
- 45 days
- Distance
- about 7,800 km
- Through
- Maharashtra, Goa, Kerala and Tamil Nadu
Ellora at opening time, the Latin quarter of Goa, nightly Theyyam in the village shrines of North Kerala, Fort Kochi's nets, the Meenakshi temple's night ceremony and Chettinad's mansions. I end at Kumbakonam for the Mahamaham, held once every twelve years.
The route.
- 2 to 6 FebBundi, Vadodara, Aurangabad, KolhapurStepwells, Ellora, Paithani weavers
- 7 to 11 FebGoa, Gokarna, UdupiFontainhas, fish market at dawn, Yakshagana
- 12 to 20 FebKannur and KasaragodTheyyam nights, handloom cooperatives, Thalassery biryani
- 21 to 26 FebKozhikode, Fort Kochi, Alappuzha, ThekkadyMappila food, Kathakali make-up, backwaters, spice
- 27 Feb to 4 MarMadurai, Chettinad, ThanjavurFlower market at 5 am, Athangudi tiles, Swamimalai bronzes
- 5 to 10 MarKumbakonamTemple car processions and the Mahamaham bathing moment
- 11 to 17 MarHampi, Hyderabad, homeHampi at sunrise, then the long drive home
Festivals on the way
- Theyyam seasonKannur and KasaragodFeb 2028, Andalur Kavu around 17 to 20 Feb
- MahamahamKumbakonam, Tamil Nadu9 or 10 Mar 2028
At the table
Thalassery biryani, toddy-shop fish, Mappila snacks, Madurai jigarthanda, Chettinad cooking.
Field journals
Goa · Gujarat · Karnataka · Kerala · Maharashtra · Rajasthan · Tamil Nadu · Telangana
Festival dates follow the lunar calendar or are announced late. I confirm them with temples and organisers about three months before each journey.
Come travel
differently.
A note from me when there is something good to share: a fresh story, a useful route, or a voice worth hearing.
Sign-ups open in January 2027, before I leave. A quiet note from me, now and then. No noise.